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Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir Spätburgunder Anne Krebiehl MW, Freelance wine writer & lecturer, London Copenhagen,

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Präsentation zum Thema: "Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir Spätburgunder Anne Krebiehl MW, Freelance wine writer & lecturer, London Copenhagen,"—  Präsentation transkript:

1 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir Spätburgunder Anne Krebiehl MW, Freelance wine writer & lecturer, London Copenhagen, 25 November 2014

2 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name Hamburg Aalborg Copenhagen Randers London Meissen (Dresden)/Sachsen Rech/Ahr Rüdesheim/Rheingau Würzburg/Franken Trier/Mosel Neustadt/Pfalz Offenburg/Baden Ihringen/Baden Colmar/Alsace Beaune/Burgundy Ampuis/Rhône Montpellier Florence/Tuscany Jerez/Andalucia Reims/Champagne Berlin Paris German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen

3 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 3 Pinot Noir: Early History Spätburgunder has a long history in Germany Charles the Fat ( ) apocryphal mention of Spätbur- gunder on King’s Vineyard Bodman on Lake Constance PN documented in Germany 1318 at Kloster Salem/Baden 1335 in Affental/Baden 1442 at Hattenheim/Rheingau -under its synonym ‘Clebroit’ 1476 at Kloster Eberbach/Rheingau 16th century as “Bleichert” in the Ahr

4 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 4 Pinot Noir Across Germany Spätburgunder is grown in most German regions: Baden5,641ha - mixed soils (volcanic, granite, loess) Pfalz1,621ha - mixed soils (volcanic, granite, loess) Rheinhessen1,421ha - mixed soils (limestone, clay, loess) Württemberg1,295ha - Triassic formations (keuper, sandstones) Rheingau 385ha - quarzite and schists Ahr 352ha - slate, volcanic and sandy loams Nahe 263ha – very mixed Franken 251ha - Triassic formations (sandstones) Mittelrhein42ha - slates Hessische Bergstrasse 46ha - mixed Sachsen 39ha - mixed

5 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 5 Historic Perception 1957 Frank Schoonmaker, German Wines, Oldbourne Press, London “An oddity called Weissherbst hardly merits great respect and esteem,” while red Spätburgunder wines “at their summit of excellence, are like rather light and common wines from one of the less famous communes of the Côte d’Or.”

6 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 5 Historic Perception 2002 Robert Parker, Wine Buyer’s Guide 6 th Ed., Simon & Schuster, New York “…a grotesque and ghastly wine that tastes akin to a defective, sweet, faded, diluted red Burgundy from an incompetent producer…” 5 6

7 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 7 What changed? The German Quality Revolution

8 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 8 Elements of Change Clonal Research Viticultural/Oenological Advances Pioneers, Education and Generational Change Climate Change Development of Premium Segment Promotion & Strong Domestic Sales Export Plantings

9 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 9 Clonal Research The changing aims of Spätburgunder clonal research in Germany mirror the preoccupations of their age: 1930s: research focussed on ensuring yields. First selections are made. 1950s: Must-weight, acidity and colour gain importance. 1980s: Loose-clustered, upright clones with botrytis- resistance, delivering big yields with lower rot- susceptibility. 1990s: Selection of loose, small-berried clones destined for premium production.

10 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 10 Emergence of Premium Segment & Promotion In 2000, Spätburgunder above DM9.00 (€4.50) was virtually non-existent in German supermarkets (Schätzel & Schygulla 2000) Introduction of Spätburgunder Grosse Gewächse by VDP 2004: 11 Spätburgunder Grosse Gewächse (publi. records begin) 2011: 80 Spätburgunder Grosse Gewächse 2014: 101 Spätburgunder Grosse Gewächse 2008 DWI Spätburgunder & Riesling as “Das Traumpaar” 2011 DWI adopts international slogan “Riesling, Pinot Noir & Co.”

11 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 5 Plantings Red wine ha 9,906 ha 36,639 ha Spätburgunder ha 1,839 ha 11,334 ha Total Vineyard area (red & white) ha66,685 ha102,197 ha Percentage of red14.9%35.9% Source: DWV (Nickening & Rückrich, 2008) and DWI 2012

12 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 12 Plantings As of 2006, Germany has become the world’s third-largest grower of Pinot Noir after France and the US, respectively. This means: Germany has more Pinot Noir than Australia and New Zealand taken together! Baden alone has more PN than NZ or Australia!

13 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 5 Perceptions - Style While a premium segment is recognised and recognisable, a distinct German premium Spätburgunder style is simply not existent. This makes premium Spätburgunder a difficult concept to market and communicate

14 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 17 Challenges Lack of big brands Fragmentation of the producer base Low volumes Packaging German wine, unlike French or Italian does not travel on the back of cuisine. Germany was simply not known for red wine.

15 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 18 We have learnt so far: The emergence and development of premium German Pinot Noir over the past 20 years can clearly be charted Premium Spätburgunder has become an accepted and distinct category within Germany. Domestic demand is strong and sustains high prices Producers have hitherto had little incentive or necessity to export.

16 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 19 However… Spätburgunder is an interesting, intriguing, facet of Pinot Noir which, unlike other grape varieties, has an open-minded cult-following happy to taste PN regardless of its origin. Whether it is right or wrong, Spätburgunder faces constant comparison with Burgundy and numerous premium PN styles from around the world, against all of which it competes. This is as much of an opportunity as it is a limitation. Its natural habitat is in the independent off-trade and in the on-trade

17 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name German Pinot Noir – Anne Krebiehl MW Copenhagen 5 German Spätburgunder’s advantages: 5 11 A new thing from the old world Wine with history and a story Great landscapes, lifestyles, culture and food Great personalities Unique expressions of Pinot Noir from slate, basalt, volcanic ash, different sandstones, keuper, limestone … Intriguing, varied, food-friendly styles Talk in terms of difference rather than judgement

18 Veranstaltung, TT/MM/Jahr, © DWI / Vorname, Name Vielen Dank für Ihre Aufmerksamkeit! Anne Krebiehl


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